Stone Mountain Fall - A Dialogue

by Jim Gravely

Good news, I survived.

I have not climbed that pitch in many, many years, but had been climbing recently doing climbs that were 4 grades higher than the guidebook rated the entrance crack, probably coulda shoulda backed off (30 ft’) but it was only a 5.4.

What I am sure about is that there was a chopped bolt 30 ft. out and a self drive without a bolt or hanger right next to it (at the crux). If there had been a bolt there the fall would have been insignificant.

I don’t think that having a single bolt in a 60 ft. slab is overkill. I am guessing/ hoping/assuming that the rock may have changed over time: holds sloughing off, rock polishing, natural protection dies,… Changing features certainly call for an occasional objective reevaluation?

I am not proposing a sport route, but there have been bolts there in the past. Is there a compelling reason not to have one there now?